A revolution of sorts occurred within me during my first year of graduate school in New York. The city of my dreams forced me to rebel with a cause: to discover whom I am meant to be personally and professionally. Amidst all of the revolving self-discoveries, it provided me with an enriching course of study in urban planning at Columbia University GSAPP. The year culminated with a weeklong journey to Havana, Cuba, where one of the most famous revolutions in history took place.
Led by an American of Cuban descent, Belmont Freeman, I traveled with GSAPP to study historical architecture, building conservation, and the challenges of material preservation in the tropics. My unique perspective on city planning, urban living, and passion for storytelling meant that this trip was much more than a chance to observe buildings. Over seven days, I let Havana speak to me through its broken streets, energetic people, and gigantic palm trees. How would I describe Havana in one word? VIBRANT.
Bright colors screamed at me from the walls of Old Havana’s eclectic buildings — a feeling I’ve attempted to portray in the film photos that follow. 1940s cars passed by with personalities that equaled those of the drivers behind the wheel. Young Cubans continued to progress in research, education, and art, overflowing with potential, even if they sometimes felt restrained. I couldn't ignore the pain being felt as the city and its economy struggle to recover from the pandemic. The duality as one local put it is ... 'decadently sad.' The resourcefulness of the Cuban people to overcome this challenge will also be vibrant, I’m certain.
The work in Havana continues. Amazingly restored landmarks prove that the once-cosmopolitan capital hasn’t forgotten its past and is busy at work preserving its rich architecture. In this state of flux, the contrast was stark. Modern high-rises go up with the help of cranes while down the street pastel painted bricks fall from a derelict three-story home. The city moves in multiple directions, embracing both old and new at once, much like I and so many others have this past year. The duality is metaphorical of any type of progress, really. So welcome to the modern-day revolution; one not of politics and governments, but of self-discovery, innovation, juxtaposition … harmony. It’s here for you whenever you’re ready, and it’s vibrant.
ECF
MORNING, NOON, NIGHT – inspired by the title of one of my favorite coffee table books, each desk note ends with something interesting for you to see, do, read, and/or wear as told through the lens of a day’s journey from sunrise to sunset. Here is a selection of addresses I enjoyed in Havana.
MORNING – The best days in Havana begin with fresh fruit. Local markets are easy to find in any neighborhood and are sure to offer mouth-watering mango, papaya, and bananas. Cafe Bohemia in Plaza Vieja will have a cappuccino and cafe con leche ready for you after a successful market trip. San Ignacio #364 entre Muralla, y Teniente Rey, Cuba
NOON – Dador sells thoughtfully designed and locally made linen in its charming Old Havana boutique. 253 Amargura, La Habana, Cuba
NIGHT – Classic Cuban dishes get a modern take on the rooftop restaurant Atelier in Havana’s vedado neighborhood. Calle 5th # 511 entre Paseo y 2 Vedado, La Habana, Cuba.
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